Waves Haircut Complete Guide 

This is just going to be a quick document for you to reference when you are about to go get a haircut.  As important as it is to grow your hair and brush it to get 360 waves, it is also important to train your hair by cutting it a certain way.  This is even more important if your hair is extremely nappy and doesn’t lay down very well.

Wash Your Hair!

Before you go to the barbershop the first thing you should do is wash your hair.  I don’t really know why cats continue to go to the shop with a head full of grease and pomade and expect a good cut.  The clippers cannot do their job if there is grease residue clogging them up.  So first step above all else is to wash your hair! 

I personally start washing my hair two days before I go to the shop.  Yes, I wash it two nights in a row BEFORE the day I go get a haircut.  I don’t have a specific reason for this other than really wanting my hair to be clean when it gets cut.

Your hairline also looks much sharper when your hair is clean.

Pick a GOOD Barber

The next thing you should do is pick a barber who knows about waves.  The easiest way to do this is ask “can you do a good waves cut?” and then judge the barber based off his response.  Ask him if he thinks you should go with a 1 & 1/2 or a 2 cut.  If he acts like he has no idea what you are talking about… run!

Stereotyping your barber can work as well.  If you see a barber in the shop with 360 waves then you know he at least knows something about the wave game and you are better off picking him than the dude with the fro. 

It also goes beyond saying that when you find a good barber, TIP HIM.  It comes in handy.  I have had barbers open the shop up for me, stay late, and give me cuts for the low because they know I am a good tipper.  It doesn’t hurt to bring your friends his way as well.  Being on your barber’s good side goes a LONG way.

With or Against the Grain?

This will be debated until the Cows come home.  What is better?  With the Grain (WTG) or Against the Grain (ATG) cuts?!

So… there is no right answer.  The answer is complicated.

Personally I’ve always seen better results getting against the grain cuts for waves.  Some people claim this will cut your waves off, but I’ve noticed that it only makes my waves deeper.

And why is that? Simple.  ATG cuts closer to the scalp.  So it creates a bigger difference between the hair coils that are longer (the “wave”) and the ones surrounding them.  At least this is my theory on ATG vs WTG cuts. 

I also had a barber do what he called a “wave cut” where he cut my hair ATG to start, then came back WTG to finish it off.  It looked really good.  Like I’ve said when I get 100% WTG cuts my waves are nowhere near when I go ATG.

Do-It-Yourself Maintenance Secrets

There are a few gems I can give you before the end of this guide on the barbershop.  I am no barber, but I can tell you one thing. There is a reason they always sit you where you cannot see the products on the table.  Why?  Because you are paying for products you can get and use on yourself for a fraction of the price!

Shaping Yourself Up

First of all, the edgers can be purchased on eBay and used in between cuts to shape yourself up.  It’s really easy to do just be patient and cut with real small strokes along your natural hairline.  Do not cut INTO your hairline, just cut the tiny hairs that grow near it to make your line crisp again.

I have two pair of edgers.  One is a pair of Andis T Outliners and the other is a pair of Andis Headliners.  Both are quality clippers though I like the Headliners better because they are smaller and give you more control.

You may have to get your clippers sharpened before you can cut like the barbers.  No worries, there are sellers on eBay who sharpen clippers as well!

I also have a pair of WAHL Clippers which I occasionally use to give myself a haircut from time to time.  You have to be willing to mess up if you are going to cut yourself.  No self-made cut will be better than the barber. But you do have the advantage of taking as long as possible to get it the way you want it.  I cut ATG of course, and cut in the same way I brush my hair, but in reverse.  The guards have numbers on them so if you want a 2 cut, just use the 2 guard.  To do a 1 and ½ you have to use a 1 guard and adjust the clippers halfway open using the little lever on the side.

Important: Whenever you cut your own hair go over the spots you cut with a cotton ball or tissue with rubbing alcohol to clear any small cuts of possible infection.

You also can get all the fragrances and moisturizers they use right from Family Dollar.  The “smell good” stuff they use is just oil sheen with fragrance.